Assembly Instructions for the Warmack D3 Retro chassis kit
Chassis built by Philippe de Lespinay for Bryan Warmack

 

See that mean dude on your left?

  

No need for such radical tooling and expertise to properly assemble
your Warmack D3 Retro chassis kit. 

         

 

This simple set of illustrated instructions 

will show you how to: 

 

-Make sure that your kit is complete.

-Get the right tools.

-Properly assemble your kit

-Avoid mistakes which may damage some parts of your kit.

 


Parts Listing:

Please verify that the following parts are included in your kit. All kits are thoroughly quality-controlled at the Works.

These are the parts you will find when you open your kit:
 

 

 -1 brass chassis pan

 -1 pre-formed guide tongue

 -1 pre-drilled motor bracket

 -1 pre-formed .078" steel main rail

 -1 1/8" front-axle tubing

 -4 1/16" brass tubing hinges

 -4 .032" steel wire pieces for hinges
 -1 3/16" rear axle jig piece
 -4 body-mounting 1/16" pin tubing
 -1 1/8" square brass tubing piece

 -1 .040" steel wire piece

 -2 1/4" square aluminum jig pieces

1/ Preparing your work bench

First, choose a flat surface where to solder the frame together. A piece of wood, Corian, slate... We used an old piece of slate to build this chassis. You also will need a small hex wrench for assembling the motor-retaining bolts, a small 1/16" square file and a graduated rule or calipers to measure things as it goes.

Prepare the following tools:

   -Soldering iron, preferably Hakko model
 # 455 with 45W flat tip.
 -Solder: Stay Brite is best.
 -Soldering acid: Stay Clean is best.
 -Building block.
 -Flat file, medium cut.
 -Standard pair of pliers.
 -Excel or X-Acto knife with #11 blade.
 -Dremel MotoTool with cutting disk.
 
-Measuring tool. rule or calipers
 -Small 1/16" square file.
 -
ScotchBrite scouring pad
 -Protective glasses and blue hospital
 gloves.

2/ Getting started

   Wear the hospital gloves to insure that
 the parts will stay free from any skin
 oils. 
 Using the ScotchBrite pad, gently clean
 all the parts so as to provide them with
 grease and corrosion-free soldering
 surface.
 Lay the main rails flat and make sure
 that both rails are parallel and even by
 gentle bending pressure

3/ Let's begin the assembly

Lay the brass pan flat and make sure that it is absolutely flat and has not been deformed during shipping and handling. Set the desired wheelbase by fitting the main rail in its slots and the motor bracket. Move the bracket forth until the desired wheelbase is reached. We recommend to set it to 4". If you wish to adopt a shorter wheelbase, you may have to cut the ends of the main rail.

 

 

Use a rule or calipers to measure your
wheelbase. Make sure that when your motor bracket is set, your crown gear will still clear the bumper formed by the main rails.
NOTE: If you decide to use a shorter wheelbase, you must cut as much from the back of the brass pans as you will remove from the main rails.

 

 

 Solder the main rails to the brass pan.
 Heat the brass with a small torch if
 possible so as to ensure a good solder
 flow. However this was soldered only
 using the Hakko 45W tip, with a bit of
 patience.    

 

 

You can set the chassis with two preset guide leads, or create
 you own. Insert a piece of the longer 1/16" brass tubing in two of

 the holes in the guide tongue. Then insert the other ends of the tubing in the pan, from the top. Make sure that the higher end of the tongue is up!

 

 

Once the tongue is in place, heat the area until the solder melts nicely and spend plenty of time to assure a good joint all around including under the front. Then trim the tubing close to the tongue and keep the remnants as you will need them later.

 

 

Now to the other end of the
 chassis. Bolt a used motor
 to the motor bracket, using
 two 2-56 hex screws
 (Warmack Racing part # WD306)

 

 

Place the motor bracket between the main rails after measuring the correct  wheelbase. Insert the piece of 3/16" brass tubing from the kit. Place a business card on the block, or 3 pieces of masking tape on top of each other. This will add .010" to .015" height to the axle. Now set the two aluminum jig pieces over the business card or masking tape. Make sure that everything lines up correctly and solder the bracket to the main rails.

You may also use .711" jig wheels front and rear instead of the supplied blocks.

 

 

There you go! Time for a
 little scrubbing and cleanup
 before the thing turns into a
 major mess. A small wire
 brush, some detergent and

 soap pads and voila!

 

4/ Let's get serious and fabricate some hinges!

 

 

 Slide one of the shorter
 pieces of 1/16" brass
 tubing over one of the .032"
 pieces of steel wire.

 Once in center, use the
 pliers to hold the tubing
 and bend the wire as
 shown at the bottom.
 Make sure that both ends
 are parallel.
 Repeat 3 more times.

 

 

 

 The hinges are now placed
 on the chassis in the
 shown locations. Make
 sure that nothing is binding
 and that everything lays
 flat.

 

 

 Next, solder the tubing on

 to the main rails, then the

 wire pieces to the pan. Try

 to avoid soldering the whole

 hinges solid as it would not

 do you any good. If this

 happens, no panic. Simply

 unsolder the mess and do

 it gain properly.

 

 

 

 Once soldered, trim the
 ends with your Dremel
 disk and clean up the
 mess once more.

 

 

 Now mark where the pans
 will be cut with a straight
 edge and a Sharpie.

 

 

 Now, carefully split the
 pans with the Dremel
 disk, slowly to avoid any
 accident. Cut all along the
 line until almost through,
 then a full cut from the out-
 side to the inside, leaving
 just enough material so as
 to break the joint by hand.
 Once done, file the ends
 and gently bevel the edges.

 

 

 Time to install the up-stops
 for the side pans. Place the
 piece of 1/8" square tubing
 as shown, right to the edge
 of the pan. Then solder
 from the inside. The solder
 will flow under the tubing
 and ensure a good joint.

 

 

 Once this is done, trim the
 tubing in an angle so as to
 make sure that the front
 tire will not be in the way.
 Repeat on the other side
 and once more, clean up
 the mess...

 

 

 Now fit one of the pin
 tubing in the hole on the
 pan, insert the piece of
 .040" steel wire as shown
 and solder the whole
 assembly. Make sure that
 no solder gets inside the
 square tubing or the pin
 tubing!

 

 

 If you did a good job, this is
 what it should look like, with
 the end of the wire trimmed.
 Repeat on the other side.

 

 

 Now solder the two rear body
 mounting pin tubing to the
 back of the pans, and you are
 done.

 

5/ Let's complete your chassis

 

 

Slide the front-axle tubing
 in the oval holes on its
 mount. Slide the two jig
 blocks under it and push
 down, then solder from the
 inside.


NOTE: If your local Retro Racing rules require a different chassis clearance than D3 regulations, you may have to use thinner jig blocks to make sure to conform.

 

 

Shave the tubing flush with
 the mount.
 You may now fit a pair of
 Parma 3/32" x 3/16"
 oilite bearings. Use a drill
 blank axle to line them up.
 Solder the bearings from
 the inside of the motor
 bracket. The solder should
 flow to the outside.
 Now do a final clean up.
 Your chassis is now ready to race.

 

 

 I built this chassis while
 taking the pictures in 3.5
 hours. It can be done in 2
 hours by anyone with
 little or no experience. It is
 by far the easiest chassis
 to assemble I have ever
 built from a kit.

 

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