So, you want to win a race? Let us show you how.

 

                   

Now that you have acquired your 1/24 scale TSR Club-Racing chassis in kit or RTR form, it is time to race. Depending on circumstances, some preparation is needed. Below is the sum of our experience with these new cars over the past few years.

1/ Routed wood tracks where a small amount of :spray glue" (traction-enhancing compound) is being used (at most commercial raceways)

This is valid for both 1/24 and 1/32 scale TSR cars, with vacuum formed or injected body.

  The first step is to reinforce the chassis so as to sustain serious impacts with not the slightest damage. While the TSR chassis is very strong, some frontal impact may actually unhook its two components, and when this happens, it takes up to 10 minutes of racing time to fix!
Once your wheelbase has been set, drill two .089" holes (drill # 43, only one hole needed for the 1/32 scale car) in the steel pan exactly where shown. Remove burrs from both sides by hand with a larger drill. Place the steel pan over the plastic chassis, make sure that the retaining hooks are engaged all the way and drill through the plastic chassis using the previously drilled holes as guide.
     
  Next, the holes in the chassis are chamfered so as to receive one (1/32 scale) or two (1/24 scale) body-mounting screws, part # TSC07 and corresponding nut(s) part # TSC06.

Once both parts have been drilled, enlarge the steel body mount holes with a .099" (# 39) drill and chamfer both sides to allow the pan to move freely side to side and forward and back.

The screws and nut(s) will then be loosely fitted and locked with a droplet of thread locker such as blue Loctite.

  Now, we reinforce the front end by fitting a piece of 1/8" O.D., 3/32" I.D. tubing to brace the axle mounts. The tubing must fit precisely between the two axle mounts. Best is to dress the ends on a small lathe, but shaving the ends with a Dremel disc wheel will do. Make sure of removing any burrs from the ends of the tubing.
   Last, we bullet-proof the car by rolling the negative motor lead over the contact rail with the flat blade of a small screwdriver. In case of serious impact, the rail will not jump the lead and interrupt electrical contact.
  The steel guide pin has been moved to the center of the braided contact. To accomplish this, please read the instructions posted here. This allows the car to drift at a greater angle while racing. Keep those contacts SHORT to avoid shorting when the car is at maximum drift.
  To benefit from the maximum allowable width, you may use the TSR wheel spacers available in 2 different widths. When installing, leave about 1-2mm of free play to the axle, allowing it to move from side to side. It makes the car more forgiving in tight corners.

 

  Of course, the spacer will be fitted tight on the gear side. Please note that the gear combinations can be altered somewhat to provide a better mesh. While the plastic gears supplied with the Home-Racing chassis are just perfect, the steel pinion and aluminum spur gear on the Club-Racing chassis are a bit on the loose side. So it is possible to use a larger pinion and improve the long-term reliability of the mesh. The "standard" ratios of 11-48, 12-47, 13-46 can be changed to 12-48, 13-47 or 14-46.
 

If any amount of "spray glue" (traction-enhancing compound) is present on your track, the TSR chassis and their sponge tires will find too much traction, lifting the chassis while cornering. This will of course cause de-slotting and you need to resolve this by two possible means:

1/ add lead weight to balance the car so as to induce rear-end sliding.

2/ machine part of the tire so as to reduce the width of the contact patch.

Or... both!

 

This picture shows where we place two pieces of lead weight (part # TSC15) on the pan sides. Another piece will fit...

 

...under the nose of the chassis as shown here. Two more small pieces can be fitted at the front corners. This may bring the total weight (chassis plus body) up to 150 grams for a 1/24 scale car fitted with a TSR vacuum formed body. It is advisable to have a total weight of at least 180 grams if using an injected plastic body. In any case, the loss of some top speed will be amply compensated by increased cornering speed, decreased lap time and much greater predictability.

 

Here you can see the assembled chassis set for a Tamiya Porsche 956 or a TSR BMW V12-LMP body. With these simple mods, your chassis will be competitive and virtually indestructible. Note the "cut-down" rear tires to shed unwanted traction on tracks where "glue" is being used.

 

2/ Plastic tracks or routed wood tracks where no traction compounds are being used

 

The recommendations are the same, except that depending on conditions, either the TSR sponge tires or the TSR-Ortmann urethane tires should be used. If the car is to be used with a traction magnet, the least amount of weight is desirable. If the car is to be used without a traction magnet, weight will be necessary to settle the car and apply down force on the tires. The use of sponge tires on a dirty track will fill the microscopic cells with dirt particles and they soon will have no traction.

 

3/ Body mounting tips

 

Whatever body is chosen, make sure that it is mounted OVER the steel pan, so that it can be made to "float" side to side, helping the handling of the car. This is why the pin-mounting system is preferred by pros over a fixed body mounting. It is VERY important to make sure that the front tires are not fouling the body either inside the fenders or on top of them. The body must remain as light as possible, so remember that paint has weight too. No excessive coats if not necessary!

 

 

This clear-plastic Porsche body was painted using Pactra/Testors Lexan paint, masking was with tape by hand, and the lettering and numbers were decals that were applied on the outside of the body.

 

 

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