How to fit the TSRF guide in your

 

Scalex-Fly-GBTrack-SCX-Carrera Plastikars

 

By PdL

 

I have never been too much of a fan of the typical "plastikar" guide flag, which has so many things wrong with it that it would take a paragraph to list. I am amazed that every new manufacturer merely copies that ugly device except for Carrera  which has its own problems with their guides...

 

So, following  my usual policy of putting my money where my mouth is at least when I can afford it, I invested into an expensive mold to produce a guide that would be universal enough to be used in most circumstances, from fixing the inherent problem of existing plastikars to helping out restoring old vintage cars or scratch-building new ones.

So here it is. The guide in this story is shown in blue so that it will be easier to figure things out, but of course is molded for production in a black glass-reinforced Nylon plastic.

 

This is what Jim Hansen, one of TSRF's many customers, has to say:

 

"I would also like to say how much I have enjoyed the TSRF "TSP1" guides that I bought on my last visit.  They are such an improvement on everything else, it is amazing.  I was having a  particular problem with a Monogram Cobra Daytona.  I just couldn't get it to handle.  I was sure that it was terminally top heavy and that the front end would never stay in the slot.  Lap after lap ended with the car flying upside down through the air.  After fitting the TSRF guide the car handles well and with the addition of just a bit of weight has dropped a full second off it's previous best lap time.  Thanks."

 

The kit comes with Associated braided contacts, a washer and nut and of course, the glass-reinforced nylon guide. The customer must supply a 1/8" I.D. X 1/4" long piece of K&S brass tubing (available from most hobby shops). Dress the piece of brass tubing with a Dremel disk, a small flat file  or on a small lathe if you have access to one. Note that some cars require another piece of the next size K&S brass tubing over the first (Carrera).
The guide can be trimmed in regard to its desired use, from leading to trailing to pin-type where it would be affixed in a solid position. The front of the guide can also be shortened, its top or corners altered to fit almost any and all  situations.
There is a hook behind the guide designed mostly for vintage car use. You may clip it off now or leave it if it does not interfere with things..
The whole idea is to obtain this configuration, pretty much as a serious pro-racing car would use. The gain in electrical contact will render your car's handling predictable and consistent, and braid wear becomes utterly irrelevant.

One may also drill little holes if preferred directly on top of the contact housings, or use braid clips found on commercial raceway-style guides.

First, it is necessary to shorten and re-bend the brass tabs on the braided contacts so that they do not interfere with the guide post. From top to bottom: stock braided contact. Flattened brass tab. Shortened brass tab (remove 3/16" with scissors). Re-bent brass tab.

Also, thinner braided contacts like the ones supplied with the TSRF cars can be used if the Associated braid is found to be too thick for some use.

Compare the lengths before and after, the altered braided contact on top of the picture.
We took a GB-Track/Fly Porsche 917 as an example. Click HERE for installation instructions on 1/24-scale Carrera cars. Remove the stock guide by pulling on it, then remove the rivets from the lead wires. Twist the lead wires ends to make them a single strand.
Select the brass spacer and make sure that it is burr-free.
 Insert the brass spacer in the guide hole. The base of the spacer may be adjusted now with the guide in position to determine desired height in relation to the front tires, to make sure that the braided contacts are flush with the contact patch of the tires. Secure with a droplet of "Zap-a-Gap" cyanoacrylate glue.
Install guide and mark the track of its rotation with a X-Acto blade.
Using a Dremel tool with a small cylindrical straight milling tool, or any other means including files, knife or whatever, cut the necessary clearance in the chassis as shown.
After making sure that the guide rotates freely and sufficiently, install the washer and the nut. The nut can be screwed BY HAND with no need for a tool. Adjust the guide so that it is rotating freely but with no excess play.
Next, fit the lead wires through the back of the guide and thread them through the holes under the guide.
Then fold them back.
 Braid installation is simple, with the bent portion of the clip ON TOP of the guide. Fold back and shape until the braid is absolutely flat on the guide.
Fray the ends and give them a slight down curve.
Compare the old guide (right) to the new one. No more of this irritating and excessive braid-wearing rocking motion, and the absolute security of always getting great electrical contact.

We ran FOUR Proxy races with a car fitted this way, without a change of braided contacts, and they are still fine. Isn't it worth the 3 dollars?

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