How to fit the TSRF guide in your


1/24 scale Carrera Plastikars (also valid on Vanquish-MG and other larger cars)


By Philippe de Lespinay


I have never been in love with the typical Plastikar guide flag, which has so many things wrong with it that it would take a paragraph to list. I am amazed that every new manufacturer merely copies this ugly device except for Carrera's  which has its own problems...


So following  my usual policy of putting my money where my mouth is at least when I can afford it, I invested into an expensive mold to produce a guide that would be universal enough to be used in many circumstances, from fixing the inherent problem of existing plastikars to helping out restore old vintage cars or scratch-build new ones.

So here it is. The guide in this story is shown in blue on the car so that it is easier to figure things out, but of course is molded for production in a black glass-reinforced Nylon plastic.


This is what Jim Hansen, one of TSRF's many satisfied customers, has to say about this guide:


"I would also like to say how much I have enjoyed the TSRF "TSP1" guides that I bought on my last visit.  They are such an improvement on everything else, it is amazing.  I was having a  particular problem with a Monogram Cobra Daytona.  I just couldn't get it to handle.  I was sure that it was terminally top heavy and that the front end would never stay in the slot.  Lap after lap ended with the car flying upside down through the air.  After fitting the TSRF guide the car handles well and with the addition of just a bit of weight has dropped a full second off it's previous best lap time.  Thanks."


  The kit comes with Associated braided contacts, a washer and nut and of course, the glass-reinforced nylon guide. The customer must obtain  a piece of 1/8" I.D. X 1/4" long piece of K&S brass tubing from the local hobby shop as it is no loonger supplied with the guide, since different car brands require different setups.
  First, it is necessary to shorten and re-bend the brass tabs on the braided contacts so that they do not interfere with the guide post. From top to bottom: stock braided contact. Flattened brass tab. Shortened brass tab (remove 3/16" with scissors). Re-bent brass tab.
Compare the lengths before and after, the altered braided contact on top of the picture.
   You will need a few more things for this specific installation:

- A # 13 twist drill to slightly enlarge the chassis guide hole.

- A # 1 self-tapping screw and a 1/16th" thin aluminum or steel washer (available at any decent hardware store or from Electric Dreams).

- A piece of 3/16" K&S brass tubing, available at any hobby shop worthy of its name.

   Remove the car's body. Remove the guide by pulling on it. Remove the braided contacts and disconnect the wires, making a note of their position.

Using the #13 drill, and holding it with your fingers or a pin-vise, gently drill through the guide hole.

  Insert a piece of 3/16" brass tubing shortened, chamfered and dressed to a length of 9mm or .36".  Push into the guide hole all the way until it is flush with the top of the guide hole.
  This means that it will stick past the bottom of the guide hole, and that is a good thing, because it means that it will correct the design problem on the Carrera chassis. You may now add a droplet of Zap-A-Gap cyanoacrylate glue between the two pieces to secure the brass tubing into correct position.
  Install the brass sleeve supplied with the guide kit over the guide post.
This is how the guide wires fit: inserted from behind, they go into small holes under the guide and are folded backwards. When the braided contacts are inserted, the pressure applies constant and trouble-free contact.
  Insert the wires in the same position as on the original guide. Install the braided contacts. Insert the guide in the guide hole.

If the car comes with sprung  steel guide contacts, just remove them and install regular wires soldered to the motor's terminals.

  Secure the guide with the #1 self-tapping screw after placing the 1/16" washer over it. Adjust the tension so that the guide is barely free. You are done.
  The new guide fits lower than the original, allowing its blade to go deeper inside the Carrera track's or any other track's slot.
  A side view shows that once the braided contacts are installed, the front wheels will barely contact the track, the guide will no longer be loose and rocking around, and this is how it should have been done by Carrera in the first place.

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